I’ve heard endless praise for Costa Rica—its volcanoes, beaches, wildlife, friendly people, and delicious food. So when my sister and her husband planned a week-long escape from the cold, we decided to join them. After visiting, I can confidently say Costa Rica lives up to the hype.
A few weeks ago I flew into Liberia, Costa Rica, with Mark, my sister, and my brother-in-law. There’s a direct flight from Minneapolis to Liberia, which made travel easy and stress-free—something I always prioritize. We had no issues on our outbound or return flights. From the moment we booked, we planned to avoid the typical resort experience and instead explore the country by car, staying in local Airbnb homes. We focused on the western coast, driving from Liberia toward Arenal and Monteverde, then returning west to Guanacaste.
DESTINATIONS
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
Our first stop was Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, a region known for its active volcano, lush waterfalls, and relaxing hot springs. The volcano sits beside Lake Arenal, surrounded by rolling hills and morning mist—an incredibly scenic area. We stayed in the nearby town of El Castillo, about a 20-minute drive to the park entrance. Over two days we hiked in the park, swam at the base of La Fortuna Waterfall, enjoyed massages at Baldi Hot Springs, and went canyoneering with Desafío. Activities in the Arenal area can be pricey, but every experience felt worth it. I highly recommend the four-hour canyoneering tour with Desafío for an immersive rainforest adventure.
For meals, we enjoyed burritos at La Ventanita Café in El Castillo and a traditional casado at La Mesa de Mama. We also stocked the Airbnb with breakfast items from a local grocery store for quick mornings in.
Monteverde
Next we visited Monteverde, home of the famous Cloud Forest Reserve. The misty canopy feels like a real-life Jurassic Park, teeming with monkeys, coatis, and more than 400 bird species. We stayed within walking distance of the reserve entrance. Even though we spent just one full day here, we made the most of it: hiking in the Cloud Forest, exploring the Women’s Artist Co-Op, and sampling coffee at Cáfe de Monteverde. We also tried local spots like Morphos in downtown Monteverde, Trapp Family Hotel near the reserve, and Stella’s Bakery. If you have time, a full coffee farm tour is worth adding to your itinerary.
One practical note if you plan to drive from Arenal to Monteverde: the route is challenging. The roads are winding, sometimes unpaved, and you must drive around Lake Arenal since there’s no direct bridge. Although the distance is about 72 miles, the drive took us nearly 3.5 hours, so plan extra time for the journey.
Guanacaste
Our final and favorite stop was a remarkable coffee farm in Guanacaste. The property sits at the top of a steep dirt road and opens to sweeping views of the ocean and surrounding hills. Orchards of oranges and coffee, vibrant flowers, an infinity pool, a hot tub, a three-season kitchen that opens to the outdoors, and hammocks make this place magical. We stayed in a two-bedroom guest house with full access to the estate. The guest house sleeps four and was listed for around $88 per night—an incredible value. The main house and guest house together would sleep a larger group, making it a great option for a family holiday or group getaway.
We spent most of our time on the property, hiking the steep trails lined with coffee and orange trees and enjoying the pool and views. One day we drove 45 minutes to Playa Coyote, the nearest beach, where we found miles of empty shoreline. The beach was peaceful, hot and humid, and felt completely off the beaten path. For lunch we tried the small local restaurant on the beach owned by a German couple and enjoyed fresh drinks and seafood.
TRANSPORTATION
ROAD TRIP! We rented a Hyundai Tucson for the week, which gave us freedom to move at our own pace. Despite warnings about road conditions, the Tucson handled rough terrain and fit four people plus luggage comfortably. Renting a car allowed us to visit multiple regions—Arenal, Monteverde, and Guanacaste—on our own schedule.
5 TIPS FOR TRAVELING IN COSTA RICA
- Be cautious driving at night—roads can be very dark. Night driving is possible, but take it slow and stay alert.
- Know your route ahead of time and how you’ll get there. Use offline GPS navigation like maps.me and download maps before you go.
- Pack layers. Coastal areas are hot and humid, while higher elevations like Monteverde can be cool in the mornings and evenings.
- Practice basic Spanish. Many locals speak English, but a few phrases in Spanish go a long way—refreshing your skills before the trip is helpful.
- Take time to savor the small moments: a good cup of Costa Rican coffee, a book, and the relaxed Pura Vida lifestyle.
If you have any questions about our route, housing, or activities, feel free to ask.